Please note that your lock is shipped with a default user code of 1234 and default programming code of 123456. These should be deleted/changed immediately after installation for security purposes (instructions provided at the end of this installation manual).
1. Affix the Template
To assist with holes that will need to be drilled for installation, use the provided template. Crease the template along one of the dotted lines (60mm (2 3/8”) or 70mm (2 3/4”) latch). Place the template on the door and position.
If you need a new installation template, please download the template here. PLEASE NOTE: When printing templates, check your print settings to make sure that the template is printed at 100% of the actual size. Once printed, check the measurements on the template with a ruler before drilling your door.
If a 2 1/8” boring hole already exists, ensure the template matches the existing hole by viewing from the other side of the door.
Once the template is aligned, tape it to the door.
Mark the holes to be drilled with a sharp object (like a nail). In this case, since the 2 1/8″ boring hole already exists, only three additional holes need to be drilled – the two upper support holes and the power cable hole.
Apply the template to the other side of the door precisely against the height line and the center line of latch mark. Mark the holes to be drilled again.
2. Drilling Holes
Time to drill some holes through your door! Deep breath and take your time. You can do this.
Note – If not installing the Cable Tube in step 4B, the center 1” hole in the template can instead be a 1/2” hole. The power and antenna cables can then be passed into this smaller hole through the bare door instead of through the Cable Tube.
Keeping the drill level and straight, drill the holes in the door face. Drill half way through on the first side, then the remaining half from the other side to increase accuracy. This also avoids damage to the other side when a drill goes right through.
Door after drilling half-way through:
Drill the remaining half from the other side of the door:
Your door should look something like this when finished with drilling:
3. Latch Installation
If you are installing this lock with a Mortise Latch please reference our Mortise Latch Installation article for additional instructions and details.
Latches come in two lengths, 2 3/8″ (60 mm) and 2 3/4″ (70mm). Before installing, insert the latch into the latch opening in the side of the door to ensure the proper fit. All good? Let’s move on…
If you are using a 70mm latch, insert the fire cup into the 54mm (2 1/8″) boring hole (if you are using a latch smaller than the 870mm, you will not be provided with a fire cup and one will not be included in the package).
Place open side of the fire cup to face the keypad side with the small bolt through-hole at the bottom.
Insert the latch with the bevel towards the door frame and secure the screws.
4. Lock Prep: Front Side (keypad)
A. Latch Support Post (70mm Latch ONLY)
Note: The latch support post is only needed if you are using the 2 3/4″ (70mm) latch. This longer latch needs a little extra support. No support post is needed if the 2 3/8″ (60mm) latch is used.
Fit the latch support post on the inside of the front plate, in outer hole Side A for a left hand hung door and in outer hole B for a right hand hung door. (See diagram C below).
Even though A and B are labeled above the inner holes, be sure to use the outer-most holes.
B. Cable Tube – Optional
Installing the cable tube is optional. It does provide some extra stability and fire protection but is not required. Screw the cable tube into the front plate (slotted side out), passing the cable through the tube.
If needed, use the slot at the end of the tube and a flat head screwdriver to screw the cable tube far enough into the front of the lock.
Be sure to screw the cable tube in far enough! For doors less than 45mm (1 3/4”) thick screw the tube all the way to the end of the thread. For doors more than 45mm (1 3/4”) leave an appropriate amount of thread showing. Example: For a 60mm (2 3/8”) thick door leave 15mm (1/2”) of thread showing.
C. Place Gaskets
Fit the self-adhesive gaskets on the front and back plates. The gaskets provide friction against the door so that it is not necessary to over-tighten the fixing bolts to provide stability.
5. Lock Prep: Interior Lock
Remove Interior Fixing Plate
To remove the interior fixing plate, start by removing the battery cover. Use the allen wrench provided to remove the hex screw at the top of the cover.
Then remove the 4 socket head bolts from the back plate (2 are found under the battery cover). This will release the inside fixing plate.
6. Lock Prep: Sizing Bolts
Cut the fixing bolts to correct length. Measured from beneath the bolt head, the length should be the door thickness, plus approximately 1/2” to the nearest cutting point of the bolt.
As a check, you can also hold the bolt up to the door to ensure the correct cutting point.
Always cut the bolts at one of the cutting points so as not to damage a thread. Use the cutting edges of pliers to crimp strongly several times around the selected cutting point.
If the cut produces a sharp point, please sand the tip of the bolt to smooth it out.
7. Installing the Lock
A. Spindle: Place the spindle into the latch with the spring on the keypad side (front) of the door. The spring ensures that the spindle remains in contact with the front of the lock.
B. Place Front Lock: Place the front keypad side of the lock onto the door, passing the cable tube through the door (if used, if not thread the power cable through the door), the spindle into the lock hub and the latch support post through the latch (if using 2 3/4″ latch).
C. Interior Fixing Plate: Place the Interior fixing plate over the cable tube and spindle. If cable tube is not used, pass the cables through the opening just below the battery case.
D. Ring Nut: Screw the ring nut onto the cable tube until finger tight.
E. Alignment Insert: Fit the alignment insert over the spindle. This will be placed TEMPORARILY to position the Fixing Plate and then removed.
F. Secure Fixing Plate: Screw the 3 fixing bolts (2 on top and one on bottom) through the back fixing plate and into the front of the lock.
Super Duper Important Info Here! Do Not Skip This Test: Check that the spindle turns freely and the latch retracts and projects smoothly with the alignment insert in place. This can be checked by gripping and turning the handle assembly on the outside of the lock. If it is tight, you will notice that the latch does not smoothly and easily snap back into place. Loosen the fixing bolts slightly and adjust the position of the fixing plate until the spindle will turn freely. Tighten the fixing bolts. Test the spindle again. Do not over-tighten the bolts as this may cause the door to distort and affect the lock function.
G. REMOVE THE ALIGNMENT INSERT.
H. Connect Power Cables: Connect the power cables, storing any excess cable within the door.
Screw end cap onto cable tube.
J. Install Batteries
Insert 4 AA Alkaline or Lithium batteries into the battery compartment.
IMPORTANT: Do not use Rechargeable batteries. Rechargeable batteries can lead to inconsistent behavior on the lock.
K. Place Interior Lock Body: Fit the back lock body over the inside fixing plate. Be sure to place the WiFi antenna connector cable through the battery cover opening.
Secure the interior lock body to the door using the 4 socket head screws (2 on top of lock and 2 on bottom).
L. WiFi Connector: Connect the front lock WiFi cable to the connector board coming off of the battery cover. Once connected, try not to disconnect too frequently as this will loosen the connection.
M. Battery Cover: Push the Wifi Connector board into the lock body and fit the battery cover onto the interior lock and secure with screw.
8. Handle Installation
A. Interior Handle
Fit the inside handle to the interior lock body.
Use the small allen wrench to ensure the hex screw allows the handle to slide onto the lock. Once in place, tighten the hex screw.
B. Outside (Keypad) Handle
Fit the key cylinder plat over the key cylinder. Then install the front handle.
C. High Five. Install complete!
The inside handle will now retract the latchbolt. The outside handle will turn freely without retracting the latch. Enter the factory default code 1234#. The green lights will flash and the outside handle will now retract the latch.
9. Connect to WiFi
You can now connect your lock to your WiFi router.
10. Delete/Change Defaults
Your lock is shipped with the following factory default settings. The default pin of 1234 should be deleted after installation and the default programming code of 123456 should be changed immediately after installation.
- Keypad Programming Code: 123456
- User Code: 1234
- Auto-Lock Mode: Enabled
- Auto-lock Delay Duration: 5 seconds
- Keypad Sound: Enabled
- Heartbeat Interval: 1 hour
To delete the default user code:
This can be deleted from the web application under the lock settings, or from the keypad by entering:
123456 # 120 # 1234
To change default keypad programming code:
123456 # 100 # New 4-10 digit code
To lock the door, press the “*” key twice from the keypad.
Troubleshooting common 7i issues:
– If you are having trouble with your 7i autolocking: remove the back plate from the keypad and ensure that there are not any wires trapped (specifically the orange wire from the hub) as this wire being constricted could cause the auto lock function to stop working appropriately. It can be easy to trap the wire when fixing the backplate if special care is not taken. – If you are noticing a 7i that won’t open when entering a code. It is most likely an alignment issue and the spindle could be sticking. If there is any friction on the spindle, it could cause the lock to not open appropriately.
– Ensure the alignment insert is removed before finishing the installation. (this is a common mistake). Called out in step 7(G) here: https://support.remotelock.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001749092-7i-Installation – Ensure the wifi antennas are appropriately connected and have not received any damage during the installation.